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I've been using the tool myself for about 2 months and it seems to work very well. The strategy I use is filtering presses where the KeyDown occurs too soon after a previous (non-filtered) KeyUp. It's not an elegant solution but it works better than bounce keys, and it's completely customizable. It basically uses libevdev to completely capture all keypresses, then emit them again after applying filters. I have searched here on the network and found an idea that I have now implemented in a tool: Now, it's easy to come up with a strategy that fixes that, but bounce keys don't allow you to change anything. The bounce keys feature is just going to discard both the chatter and your second keypress because it thinks only 90 ms passed from the last one - which was just a chatter, and was blocked anyway! So let's say you press the key twice with a 120 ms delay, but there's a chatter 30 ms after your first press. Your keyboard inserts presses even if you don't do that. This doesn't work well for our problem because it's not just you pressing the keys too fast. If you set the delay to 100 ms, for example, and press the key every 99 ms, it's going to filter all of the keypresses. The bounce keys do work, but there's a problem. I have visited this thread some time ago searching for solutions, but wasn't really satisfied with the options. Will even allow a keyboard with problems to work fine kbdrate -r -d This seems to often be set to kbdrate -r 32 -d 250 I have found this setting in bash that stops the multi key press on the cli.
Keyboard filter 01 drivers for mac mac#
Might have just been random key press and no LEDs in Linux and *BSD, apple mac that had the bigger problems. ISTR there were people using the Teensy USB to over come this fake USB thing. So they could say it had full, or nKRO, which you only have over PS/2. They did some trick in the USB/controller to get past the 6KRO (6 key roll over) hard limit that USB has.
Keyboard filter 01 drivers for mac windows#
The more I think about this, the more I seem to remember there being some talk that in the Noppoo T&C's or advert it was only guaranteed to work on windows boxes. That said if you type less than a few 1000 words a day or are a gamer there is not really any point in getting a mech board. The blue switch is the best for a new user to learn with, never start with a red switch. Something I have seen (in the last 5-6 years) as mech boards have moved into the realms of a fashion object, is that new users bash the keys too hard, if you do bottom out the keys it should hardly make a sound, and when you dont bottom out you will start to get the best from the board. I have some 30+ cherry switched boards (yeah, its not, er, cough, sniff a problem or anything man ) going back to a 1984 g80-1000 that works as good as it was new, and never given more than a brush out with a clean paint brush every few months. The main point of this post is to say that I have never seen a bad cherry switch that was not damaged by some outside force, most often spillage or force from something being dropped onto the board. It could be a controller problem, I dont use my Noshist's (Noppoos) as I call them, but I did get one of the first batch of the Filco Zero board a few years back and that had a problem with the direction and speed of scan rate so you got lots of transposition errors (like teh) and there is a trick you can do by pressing a credit card (or something like) down at a slight angle into 4 or 5 keys a few times into a basic text editor and checking the results are correct. I checked it with another Filco, no change, and then an older ALPS blue switched, then an g80-3000 board with diodes, but nothing stopped it until I changed the BIOS kbrd speed down to normal, it was a problem for all of the boards I used.įrom what I have read the above bounce delay setting is often not perfect for cherry switched boards, but as I dont leave the cli I doubt it really matters to me, but might help other users. That said after many years of using most types of mech 'board without ever seeing a problem, I thought I would try a diff *nix distro (arch, I'm a slackware user) on a spare box, as soon as I hit the cli I started to get multiple key presses. Its not a common problem for mech keyboards, and the cherry MX switch was made to stop this problem, because of the way the switch works you have to come back off the contact past the latching point to make another contact its not like a 'dome board.